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When compiling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.